This climb is justifiably famous and was just featured in in a CitiBank commercial.
The climb is Stolen Chimney, more commonly known by the name of the formation it climbs: Ancient Art. It’s in the Fisher Towers near Moab, Utah, and it’s probably the most famous climb in a state that has thousands and thousands of climbs. Here’s the commercial and the climb [click here if you can’t see the video below]:
I did this climb with Jonny back in February 2008. We drove down to Moab, camped, and climbed Ancient Art the next day before driving back to Provo. I don’t remember much about the climb. I remember that I led every pitch because Jonny wasn’t a trad climber (and 4 years later, I’m still not sure if he is). I remember that pitch was was relatively tame face climbing. Pitch two was a chimney. Pitch 3 was a short face pitch. And pitch 4 was the short money pitch.
I also remember that Jonny’s truck got a flat tire.
From an exposure and position standpoint, this is probably the most amazing climb I’ve done. I’ve done a couple other climbs in the Fisher Towers, but the only one I have on the blog here is The Titan.
The Fisher Towers in January. Ancient Art is marked with a yellow arrow.
Ancient Art. The summit is the funky-looking point just right of center.
Me, all racked up and ready to go. I think I was also really cold.
Jonny coming up pitch 1.
Jonny in the pitch 2 chimney.
Jonny near the top of pitch 2. He’s just finished climbing the chimney.
Jonny belaying from the top of pitch 2, I think.
Pitch 3, and me at the top of it.
Me and the corkscrew summit.
Me at the base of the summit pinnacle.
Me almost at the top.
Me on top. Just to make things more interesting, the block that you stand on at the top wobbles a bit.
Jonny pulling the beached whale move.
Jonny on top.
Jonny rappelling.
Me in front of Cottontail Tower.
Jonny getting ready to fix his flat tire.
Jonny fixing his flat tire like a boss.