This was the first climb I remember putting on my to-do list when I first started climbing.
I read an article about it in Rock & Ice magazine probably about 10 years ago now. I thought it looked amazing. When I first started buying trad climbing gear, I bought everything according to the gear list mentioned for this route.
I finally climbed it on June 2, 2009 with Perin and Lee. We did it on the first day of a 2-day Moab trip. The tower (the Three Penguins) is located right by the entrance of Arches National Park. The entrance to Arches National Park is located about 5 minutes from downtown Moab, Utah.
Perin led the 5.10 hand crack first pitch, I led the 5.10 flaring offwidth second pitch. The first pitch was sweet and Perin cruised it, the second was super burly, and I had to pull on gear to get through it.
[Click any photo for a larger version]
The aptly-named Three Penguins. The Right Chimney climbs the crack system between the middle and right penguins.
Approaching the tower.
Lee belaying Perin on the first pitch.
Perin cruising up the first pitch.
Me about to climb.
I had to use one trad shoe and one sport shoe because I'd somehow lost my other trad shoe somewhere.
Me climbing the first pitch.
Unfortunately, I didn’t get any photos of the second pitch. It was a short, steep, unpleasant 5.10 offwidth that I struggled up.
Perin rappelling from the top.
After the successful ascent.