This was the first climb I remember putting on my to-do list when I first started climbing.
I read an article about it in Rock & Ice magazine probably about 10 years ago now. I thought it looked amazing. When I first started buying trad climbing gear, I bought everything according to the gear list mentioned for this route.
I finally climbed it on June 2, 2009 with Perin and Lee. We did it on the first day of a 2-day Moab trip. The tower (the Three Penguins) is located right by the entrance of Arches National Park. The entrance to Arches National Park is located about 5 minutes from downtown Moab, Utah.
Perin led the 5.10 hand crack first pitch, I led the 5.10 flaring offwidth second pitch. The first pitch was sweet and Perin cruised it, the second was super burly, and I had to pull on gear to get through it.
[Click any photo for a larger version]
Unfortunately, I didn’t get any photos of the second pitch. It was a short, steep, unpleasant 5.10 offwidth that I struggled up.